Selecting & Buying New Hardware
Although the assortment of hardware available is huge and varied, there are a few basic questions which can be addressed and applied to hardware. These include:
Does it move?
Does the item have 'add-ons' such as
rubber feet?
Does it have a special finish?
What about rack systems?
Let's consider these in order.
'Movement' can include ball-and-socket joints,
angle joints, nuts, bolts, screws and rotation about pivots or
bearings (such as pedals). Where there is repeated movement,
lubrication should be considered.
You will find that on most new hardware threads, pivots etc have
already been pre-lubricated, BUT ALWAYS CHECK. IN ADDITION some
manufacturers use brass threads which are self-lubricating and
therefore, DO NOT need any extra lubrication. Check them for
cleanliness and cross-threading or other thread problems.
For screw threads on nuts and bolts apply either clean oil
(around 20w/50w used for cars is fine) or petroleum jelly (such
as Vaseline™). Use SPARINGLY. Work the nut/bolt in and
out a few times to lubricate both the 'male' and 'female'
threads, thus prolonging life.
More specialised joints such as ball-and-socket or pivot joints
are designed to be moved and then LOCKED to prevent any further
movement. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES should these be lubricated, or
their function will be lost and your drums etc will NOT be held
where you want them (this also applies to plastic or nylon
'bushes' used as part of a locking mechanism). To maintain their
life, DO NOT USE excessive force as they are designed to lock
with relatively little effort. TOO MUCH force and they will
wear-out very quickly. Replacement can be time consuming and
expensive.
Where there are pivots such as on pedals, listen for 'squeaking'
or 'grating' noises, and IF NECESSARY lubricate SPARINGLY with a
light oil. For ball races and bearings, such as on bass drum
pedals, check that they are well lubricated. A slightly heavier
oil is better here. Check that any chain-drives are lubricated,
again using a heavier oil or a purpose-designed chain lubricant
(available from motorcycle or mountain bike shops) applied
SPARINGLY. Springs may have an internal felt pad to which a
light grade lubricating oil can be added. This facilitates
smooth action and helps to prevent corrosion.
Where tubes slide into one-another (telescopic) such as on cymbal
stands, check the tubes for damage or distortion which may stop
or impair how well they slide into each other. Many of these
slide through plastic locking collars which can be damaged by
deep scratches on the tubing.
With cymbal tilters, check that the internal spring and washer
assembly is greased. If not, use a standard grease or petroleum
jelly on all components. Try to avoid getting any grease on
surfaces which may lock the cymbal in place, although this is
less of a problem on tilters which use interlocking teeth (a
ratchet) to secure the tilter in place (select thumbnail below to
view image more clearly).
'Exploded View' of Cymbal Tilter Assembly
(click image to enlarge)
For snare drum stands of the 'basket-type',
there is no need to lubricate collars which may slide over another tube
when raising or lowering the basket (unless you want oil on your
hands and clothes each time you pick the stand up or adjust
it!). However, a small amount of petroleum jelly can be applied
into the pivots on the arms of the basket if desired.
Remember that the aim is to provide lubrication and therefore,
prolong the life of moving parts (and ultimately your stand) so
always lubricants SPARINGLY and remember to wipe off the excess when you've
finished. See thumbnail below (click on image to enlarge).
Photograph of Snare Stand with Grease Points
(click image to enlarge)
Hi-hat stands have a sprung 'pulling mechanism'
which allows movement of the foot plate to be translated into an
up and down movement of the hi-hat cymbals. There is NO NEED to
lubricate where the top section of the rod slides through the
plastic guide/bottom hi-hat holder. Check other moving parts and
lubricate as necessary. Springs may have an internal felt pad to
which a light grade lubricating oil can be added. This
facilitates smooth action and helps to prevent corrosion.
The term 'add-on' is used here to describe any
separate piece of equipment which helps the hardware to perform
the function for which it was designed. These can include rubber
feet, protective cymbal felts, sleeves or plastic
holders/protectors, snare support clamps or plastic inserts for
locking collars.
Cymbal stands usually have rubber feet on their base. Check that
these are firmly attached. In addition check that all of the
plastic inserts are in place (if present) and working properly.
Ensure that there is PLASTIC between the cymbals and metal rod on
the tilter mechanism, and that there are TWO CYMBAL FELTS present
on the tilter. Cymbals are often protected from metal-to-metal
contact by either a plastic 'sleeve' which slides over the metal
rod of the tilter assembly, or via a plastic 'casting'
which performs a dual
function of protection against
metal-to-metal contact and holding the cymbal felts.
On Snare drum stands check for the presence of rubber feet and
plastic inserts (if present), ensure that all rubber/plastic
supports are securely in place on the arms of the snare stand
'basket' assembly.
For the hi-hat stand check for the presence of all rubber feet
and plastic inserts (if present), check the presence of a fibre
'washer' (which sits between the tilter mechanism for the lower
hi-hat cymbal and the cymbal felt) and the cymbal felt. In
addition, check that all aspects of the hi-hat clutch work. It
is very common for the hi-hat clutch assembly to have NO
PROTECTION between cymbal and the metal of the clutch assembly.
Try putting a couple or 3 turns of PTFE plumbing tape around the
central metal spindle at the level where the cymbals will be when
secured onto the clutch, by the felts. One can be limited as to
materials to give this protection, due to the diameter of central
hi-hat spindle (select thumbnail below to view image more
clearly).
Photograph of Hi-Hat Assembly
(click on image to enlarge)
On other stands or holders check that all rubber feet and protectors are present and secure (if applicable) and be sure to check for the presence of cymbal felts and protection from metal-to-metal contact on cymbal arms/boom arms.
Does it have a Special Finish?
Most hardware has some sort of special finish e.g., chromium plating, black chrome, paint or enamelling. Use an appropriate commercially-produced cleaner or polish for the type of finish in question. HOWEVER, dust and general 'light-weight' dirt can be easily removed by rubbing over the surface with a dry (or slightly damp, followed by dry) cloth. Where special finishes have been used, AVOID the use of abrasive cleaners such as steel wool, unless removing corrosion. If you have steel 'unfinished' stands or clamps protect them with a very thin coating of light oil, applied with a cloth. The product WD-40™ is good for this purpose and is less 'greasy'.
Rack systems are popular. These consist of a main
'frame' or 'rack' onto which mounting clamps are fixed. These
clamps in-turn, secure the various holders, cymbal arms,
accessory clamps etc in a fixed position. Racks are very good
for 'memory locking' i.e., remembering where everything goes, for
rapid setting-up and consistency of set-up. Check over the rack
and clamps as you would for a new stand, concentrating on moving
parts and 'add-ons' as above.
Avoid using any lubrication where friction is required to hold
clamps in place or where the clamps themselves, hold other items
in place. This is especially important with racks which use
round, tubular frames such as those manufactured by Gibraltar.
You may like to Contact Us with specific
Questions.
Find out more about hardware from the Hardware Manufacturers.
You can also contact the Music Press, for
a 'road tested' view of the equipment's performance.
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